It must be said clearly that bespoke tailoring is not a scalable business. There are extremely few craftsmen, and training them to work in the style of a specific atelier is very difficult. We therefore decided to ease the excess demand by creating a RTW (Ready To Wear) navy suit, which would have its roots in bespoke tailoring. While extracting all the golden rules of creating suit patterns and their proportions, we also did not forget about current trends. Like no other brand, we keep our finger on the pulse, reporting on the latest trends in men’s elegance from the international scene.

Navy Phoenix suit – MILER Menswear

Of course, perfecting such a project was not easy, but finally – a few years ago – we managed to create Phoenix – our flagship suit, which delighted enthusiasts of elegance.

We made sure that the cut of the navy Phoenix suit is truly modern in a global, not merely local, sense. This means that its uniqueness comes from proportions rather than from gimmicks or tricks such as colorful buttonholes and piping. The shape of the Navy Phoenix Suit is the result of conversations with dozens of clients of MILER Bespoke Tailoring. And what is our most important conclusion? We do not want our clients to be flashy, but it is important to us that they stand out in the crowd.

When does a suit look good? 

There are several features of a suit (or jacket) that can be called the foundations of a good appearance. To illustrate them properly, we compared the cut of an off-the-rack jacket from another store with the classic rules of elegance that we apply when creating bespoke suits, including the Navy Phoenix Suit. In both photos, the jacket is worn by the same model, and it is in the correct size for him (shoulder width and body circumference).

Shoulder padding, lapel gorge, and lapel width (points 1, 2, 3)

There is currently a global trend toward light shoulder padding (1), and that is exactly what we chose for the Phoenix suit. The padding is substantial enough that you can wear this navy suit to a wedding. With the right accessories, the jacket of the Phoenix navy suit can also be an important part of a more casual outfit. The modern look of this navy suit is also guaranteed by the carefully placed lapel gorge (2), the point where the jacket lapel meets the collar running around the neck. These elements clearly distinguish the Phoenix navy suit from other creations. This is consistent with current trends and clearly sets our navy suit apart from other off-the-rack suits available in Poland.

The element of the Phoenix navy suit that most stands out, setting it apart from more ordinary garments, is the width of the lapels (3). The fact that we chose to go against the current in this respect was entirely obvious to us. Wide lapels look distinguished, impressive, and harmonious. They give the man wearing them an outfit that reflects global trends. And that’s the point. After a long discussion, we decided that the width of our lapel would be exactly 58% of the shoulder width, slightly exceeding half of it. In our view, this proportion is ideal!

See for yourselves how wonderfully the shoulder line, the position of the lapel gorge, and the width of the lapels harmonize with one another!

Breast pocket 

The second feature of the Phoenix navy suit, after the lapels, that makes it stand out in a crowd even from a distance, is the shape and placement of the breast pocket. In this navy suit, the breast pocket is shaped like a strongly curved little boat, which highlights the pocket square phenomenally! There’s no denying it – this is a suit designed to be worn with a pocket square, created for men who know their style and want to look sharp. There is one more essential condition for the attractive look of the breast pocket: one of its ends must be placed slightly under the lapel. This gives the torso a sense of dynamism and slenderness, while also helping to control the pocket square and prevent it from collapsing. The final effect is stunning!

The button stance and jacket length

Another distinguishing feature of the navy suit, drawn from bespoke tailoring. The button stance is placed just slightly above the natural waist, which gives the jacket proper proportions, lending it a noble and balanced look. We approached the jacket length in the same way. Since the Phoenix navy suit is based on classic bespoke tailoring models, we opted for the most timeless proportions that have stood the test of time. The jacket was designed to divide the silhouette into two equal halves. In practice, it looks excellent!

That’s not all!! 

In our opinion, the elements of a suit we described above form a solid foundation that should be present in absolutely every suit that is not meant to compromise its wearer. But MILER Menswear takes things further. Much further!

Lapel roll

The construction of the Phoenix navy suit is distinguished by the beautiful outward curve of its lapels. This effect is often referred to as the “lapel roll.”

Pants

Nowadays, suit pants should be narrow. A leg width of 21 cm, which once used to be considered avant-garde in the world of suits in Poland, is now the upper acceptable standard. It is worth keeping this in mind when choosing pants. Well-tailored pants should not only have slim legs but also provide comfort in the thigh. Of course, they must also have the correct length. The only proper pant length is adjusted so that there is a single break above the shoe. Some still maintain the myth that pants must reach the heel at the back, but one must remember that this is nonsense, because how low the pants fall at the heel depends on their width. To reach the heel with slim suit pants, you would have to tear them.

Fabric

The countries that are renowned for elevating the weaving industry to the heights of prestige are England and Italy. For this reason, I struck a deal with the world-famous mill Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Navy Phoenix suit is made from 100% wool sourced from the world-renowned Vitale Barberis Canonico mill. This wool has excellent qualities such as softness, elasticity, and thermoregulation. All of these contribute to the comfort and longevity of the suit. The fabric is a twill with a wool fineness of 110s. As you can see, its properties are more in line with the luxurious fabrics used in bespoke tailoring than with a suit available at such an accessible price.

Buttons

Since the Phoenix navy suit is a direct reference to bespoke tailoring, it also had to feature such buttons. We chose buttons made of corozo nut in a very dark brown color, which pairs perfectly with every type of footwear.

Attention to detail

The navy suit also features a few hidden touches. The first of these is decorative AMF stitching, which stabilizes the lapel and recalls the hand-stitching used in tailoring workshops.

Of course, our navy suit also features functional buttonholes on the cuffs (so-called surgeon’s cuffs), which likewise pay homage to its tailoring heritage.

One suit for many occasions

Below we present outfits based on the Phoenix navy suit: