Pocket square – how do you properly fold this charming and elegant accessory with character? It’s an item that’s often a bit underestimated. People tend to think of it as “just some” little handkerchief you stuff into your jacket pocket—no matter how. But that kind of thinking is a big mistake, one that can definitely affect the rest of your outfit and your overall appearance. So what’s the deal with the pocket square? We’re here to offer a few tips so that folding a pocket square never gives you trouble again!
What is a pocket square?
You could say that it's essentially a decorative handkerchief placed in the breast pocket — the outer chest pocket of a suit jacket. It only truly looks good if it’s high-quality and well-made. Ideally, the edges should be hand-rolled and hand-stitched. Pocket squares are most often made from luxurious fabrics such as linen, silk, or wool. Depending on your personal preferences — and largely on the type of fabric used — there are various ways to fold and place the pocket square in the breast pocket.
What’s the difference between a pocket square and a boutonnière?
These two terms are often confused. As we've already explained, a pocket square is a small handkerchief placed in the breast pocket of a suit jacket. In contrast, the boutonnière is a buttonhole on the lapel of a jacket, typically found on high-quality suits. Its purpose is to allow for the easy placement of a carnation or other small flower.
The history of the pocket square
The pocket square first appeared as early as ancient times, when the Greeks and Egyptians used it as a simple white linen handkerchief. In the 14th century, French nobles began perfuming their handkerchiefs to ward off unpleasant odors. The pocket square gained popularity across Western Europe in the 18th century. Today, the white pocket square is considered a classic and universal men's accessory.
How to wear a pocket square?
Whether or not you choose to wear this accessory is entirely a personal decision. Truthfully, you can still look great without it—if you don’t feel like wearing one, that’s okay. However, since you’re reading this article, you’re probably interested in adding it to your outfit and want to know the answer to the question: “How do I fold a pocket square?” And that’s a great choice! Below, we present various folding styles for colorful Miler Menswear pocket squares. The silk pocket squares featured below were designed by Alek "Lis Kula" Morawski. In our store, you’ll find stylish pocket squares with beautiful patterns.
Explore the full collection of multicolored silk pocket squares by Miler Menswear by clicking on one of the options below:
A pocket square can beautifully transform an entire outfit and give it a completely new dimension. For example, if you choose a classic white linen pocket square, it will add elegance and make your outfit appear more formal and refined. Additionally, the white fabric will brighten your face and overall silhouette. On the other hand, if you go for a patterned silk pocket square and fold it in a more creative way, it will bring a stylish accent to your look, and you’ll come across as a man who is sophisticated and fashion-aware. Ultimately, any carefully made, well-chosen, and properly folded pocket square will signal that you’ve paid attention to your appearance—and that you know exactly what you’re doing.
Pocket square – how to fold this accessory? Folding a pocket square takes a bit of practice, but it's definitely something you can learn! Here are 3 easy ways to fold a pocket square:
TV fold
This is the simplest and most classic way to fold a pocket square. It’s most often chosen for more formal occasions, or whenever you want to represent timeless elegance.
The color most often recommended in this case is white. It’s the most traditional option and a great choice for those who feel unsure about bolder or patterned accessories. It also won’t draw unwanted attention. As for fabric, linen is the best match for the TV fold. Why? Because linen is relatively stiff and textured, which helps the pocket square stay in place in the breast pocket throughout the day. Linen also wrinkles easily — but in this case, that’s actually a benefit. Once folded, the pocket square holds its creases, meaning you won’t have to adjust or fuss with it, avoiding the appearance of being overly concerned with your look or lacking confidence.
So how should you fold a pocket square? The fold needs to be adjusted to fit the width of the breast pocket. The pocket square should be folded exactly to match the pocket’s width—no more, no less. If the fold is too narrow, it may shift around or slide under the lapel. If it’s wider than the pocket, it will crumple or bunch up in an unattractive way. When it comes to folding a pocket square, it’s worth taking the time to do it properly.
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
Once the pocket square is folded into a rectangle, you should check the depth of the breast pocket, as this will determine how tightly the bottom end needs to be rolled. This rolled portion acts as an “anchor” that keeps the square securely in the pocket. It’s important to remember that if you roll the anchor too tightly, the pocket square may sink down. If you roll it too loosely, it may stick out too far or bunch up unattractively. When it comes to an accessory like the pocket square, folding it properly is absolutely essential.
One more important detail — a well-tailored jacket will have a breast pocket cut slightly on a curve and placed at a slight angle, never in a perfectly horizontal line. So, in the case of the TV fold, the pocket square should follow the shape of the pocket: On the outer edge, it should align with the top of the pocket, while toward the inside, the pocket will gradually reveal more of the fabric.
Mountain fold
Another way to fold a pocket square is the mountain fold. The name, of course, comes from mountains, because the folded fabric resembles peaks. This style is slightly less formal than the TV fold, but more expressive in appearance. In this case, other types of fabrics work well too—flowy materials like silk, as well as more colorful or patterned designs, are excellent choices.
To create this fold, start by grasping one edge of the pocket square, then bring the other corners toward it one by one. It’s very important that the folds face inward. When you have three corners aligned side by side, forming something that resembles a mountain peak, it means you’ve done it correctly. Now it’s time to fold the bottom of the pocket square outward and add the last corner. Then, grab the bottom part of the square (just below the "mountain peak") and roll it tightly. You shouldn’t place it loosely in your breast pocket, as the whole structure wouldn’t stay in place. Finally, you can gently pull out the corners to adjust the shape for the most flattering look—or to make sure that any visible pattern on the fabric is nicely displayed.
Puff fold
This is the most nonchalant, yet also the most complex of the folding methods presented. It’s perfect for complementing a refined and sophisticated outfit. Here as well, silk and patterned pocket squares work best.
It’s sometimes said that, for this type of fold, you should lay the pocket square flat and then simply “pinch” it in the middle. That’s one way, but it’s neither ideal nor long-lasting. Your pocket square will quickly lose its shape and flatten out in the pocket. The proper method involves forming your hand into an “O” shape and placing the pocket square over it, with the pattern facing the ceiling. Then, using a finger from your other hand, push the center of the square into the hole created by your first hand. This gives you the core of your puff fold. Next, pinch the fabric above the dip you just made by pressing your finger down into the center. Now, with your other hand, grab both the puff and its base. At this point, you should have a voluminous, three-dimensional shape. By twisting and gently folding the bottom, you’ll have a striking and elegant puff fold ready to fill your breast pocket. And just like that—done!
Types of pocket squares for a suit
White linen
These classic white accessories are made of linen. Its slightly rough texture helps prevent the pocket square from slipping into the bottom of the breast pocket. They are most commonly folded in a TV fold. An ideal pocket square for highly formal suits — and it looks just as great in a jacket.
Silk
Patterned pocket squares in various colors are made from silk. Silk has a softer, more fluid structure, which is why it typically forms more voluminous, three-dimensional shapes. It’s ideal for folds like the puff or mountain fold. Silk pocket squares offer a slightly lower level of formality compared to the linen version described above.
Comments (6)