Light blue and navy pocket square with a windjammer motif

What is a pocket square?

You could say that it is essentially a decorative handkerchief placed in the breast pocket—the outer pocket on the chest of a jacket. It looks truly elegant only if it is of high quality and crafted with care. Ideally, it should be hand-stitched. Pocket squares are most often made from luxurious materials such as linen, silk, or wool. Depending on your personal preferences, and to a large extent on the fabric it is made from, different folding techniques are used to place it in the breast pocket.

The history of the pocket square

The pocket square first appeared long ago, in ancient times, when the Greeks and Egyptians used it as a simple white linen handkerchief. In the 14th century, French noblemen would perfume their handkerchiefs to ward off unpleasant odors. The pocket square became popular across Western Europe only in the 18th century. Today, it is considered a classic and versatile men’s accessory.

Pocket square – how to fold this accessory? 3 methods:

Folding a pocket square takes a bit of practice, but it’s definitely something you can master! Here are 3 ways to fold a pocket square.

TV fold

This is the simplest and most classic way to fold a pocket square. It is most often chosen for more formal occasions or when you simply want to embody timeless elegance.

The color most commonly recommended in this case is white. It is the most traditional option and an excellent choice for those who are hesitant about more colorful or patterned accessories. It also won’t attract any unwanted attention. As for the fabric, linen works best for the TV fold. Why? Because it is relatively stiff and textured, allowing the pocket square to stay securely in place in the breast pocket all day long. Linen also creases easily, but in this case, that’s not a disadvantage. Once folded, the pocket square will hold its creases, meaning you won’t need to adjust it throughout the day—this prevents giving the impression of fussing too much over your appearance or lacking confidence.

So how should you fold a pocket square? Its fold needs to be adjusted to fit the breast pocket. The handkerchief must be folded to precisely match the width of the jacket pocket—no more, no less. If the pocket square is folded too narrowly, it may shift around or disappear under the lapel. On the other hand, if it’s wider than the pocket, it will bunch up inside and look untidy. Folding a pocket square requires care and attention to detail—it’s worth taking the time to do it properly.

Once you’ve folded it into a rectangle, check the depth of the breast pocket. This will determine how tightly the end of the pocket square needs to be rolled. This rolled end acts as an “anchor,” keeping the pocket square securely in place. The handkerchief should only protrude slightly from the pocket. It’s important to remember that if you roll the end too tightly, the square will sink into the pocket, while if it’s too loose, it will stick out too much or bunch up inside. With an accessory like the pocket square, folding it properly is absolutely essential.

One more important detail—a well-tailored jacket will have a breast pocket cut with a slight curve and set at a gentle angle; it will never be a perfectly horizontal line. For the TV fold, this means that on the outer side, your pocket square should align with the top edge of the pocket, while moving inward, the pocket will gradually reveal more of the fabric.

Puff fold

This is the most nonchalant yet also the most complex of the folding methods presented. It’s perfect for complementing a sophisticated and elegant outfit. Here too, silk and patterned pocket squares work best.

It is sometimes said that for this type of fold, you should lay the pocket square flat and then “pinch” it in the very center. While this is one method, it is neither perfect nor durable—the pocket square will quickly lose its three-dimensional shape and flatten out in the pocket. The proper technique is to form your hand into an “O” shape and place the pocket square on top of it with the patterned side facing upward. Next, use the finger of your other hand to push the fabric down through the hole created by your first hand. At this point, you’ve formed the core of your puff fold. Then, pinch the material just above the dip created when you pushed the square through. Now grasp both the puff and its core with your other hand. At this stage, you have a very full and voluminous shape. With a slight twist and roll of the bottom of the pocket square, you now have a striking and elegant fill for your breast pocket. And you’re done!